Instructor: Andy Sigler
Class Time: Thursday afternoons, 3:20-6:15pm
Office Hours: 20 minutes Sign up here
ITP is pass/fail, but you do still get graded. To pass, students must document and show work and progress through out the semester, and cannot miss more than 2 classes without prior notice.
Buy everything form the things page (yes, even the bits)
Breadboard ATtiny85 sensor that controls an LED. Commit to an interaction and sensor circuit for the Marquee letter assignment due Week 4.
Send me a link to your "Homemade Hardware" blog category. Create a first post including a hand-drawn schematic of your breadboard, and a video of it working.
Read through the following:
See the videos on how to do simple soldering in the in the soldering section of the Process page
If you are interested in seeing some more advanced stuff, check out Sparkfuns series of tutorials on soldering. It's mostly surface-mount examples, but the basic principals on how solder moves and what the common issues are the same with through-holes parts.
We went through some commands in class. Here are what we talked about, and a basic description:
NOTE: We will start with single-sided PCBs, so keep in mind that all "jumps" like this to the other side will end up being "air-wires"
I've added a checklist of what to do when using the Othermill in the Process section of this website. Read through it while setting up your milling job. There is also a section on using Engraving Bits, and a video on cleaning copper plates.
Also you can look through this introduction to the machine by Bantam Tools.
We will use a TIP120 transistor so that you can drive super bright LEDs if you'd like. Those require more current than your Arduino/ATtiny85 pin can output, so we use a transistor to turn on and off those higher currents.
Great jog everyone, everyone's PCBs work!!! Find the sign assembled and hanging on the wall.
The ATtiny84 (on digikey) is just like the ATtiny85, except it has more pins. The ATtiny84/85 are both fairly easy to solder down compared with other microcontrollers and modules.
The ATMega328p (on digikey) is the most popular microcontroller around, it's what powers the Uno, Pro Mini, Adafruit Metro, and many others. It is difficult to solder down, but it's such a great chip that maybe you'll want to give it a try. Also, it does not support an "internal" clock, so you need to add a crystal or resonator to you circuit (we have 8mhz resonators in the cage).
The ATMega32u4 (on digikey) is very similar to the 328p, except it has hardware USB support, so it can act as a USB device.
When selecting surface mount (SMD) components, it is important to pay close attention to the package (the shape) that the part comes in. If your components are not the same shape as in your Eagle file, then they will not be able to fit onto your PCB.
In the image above, you can see that the ATtiny85's package is what's called an SO-8 or SOIC-8. The ATtiny84's package is similar but with more pins, it's called an SO-14 or SOIC-14
Also, the 3.3v 0.5A regulator that we have in the cage is an SOT-223 package like in the picture above.
Passive components are things like resistors, capacitors, and LEDs. We have many reels of these parts in the cage, all of which are 0603 SMD part sizes. So when ADD'ing parts to you schematic, make sure your passive components are 0603.
NETS in Eagle Schematic files are the green lines that connect PINS together. Each NET has a unique name, like for example "VCC" and "GND". If two NETS are given the same name, then they are connected to each other, allowing you to "connect" PINS in your schematic without having to draw those lines.
See all information on modules in the modules section on the process page
Feb 26 (rescheduled for 9am)
A "ground-plane" is when, instead of ROUTE'ing your GND connections, you can draw a POLYGON that fills in the entire PCB with your GND signal. Ground-planes help shielding noise, cooling your circuit, and often times making production a little simpler.
See the section on the Process page on drawing a ground-plane in Eagle.